"Amaryllis -      Hippeastrum"

Growing and Care of Amaryllis Bulbs:

Amaryllis bulbs are planted in pots from October until the end of April for flowering late December until the end of June. They take 6-8 weeks from planting to flowering. You can achieve continuous bloom by planting at intervals of 2 weeks. The larger bulbs produce more flowers. Purchase large, firm bulbs which do not yet show any new leaves. Loose bulbs should be kept in a cool airy place between 40-50 deg. F (5-10 deg. C) before planting.

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Potting

For potting use a flowerpot 6 to 8 inches (15-20cm) in diameter with a drain hole in the bottom. The pot should be only 3-4 in. (8-10 cm) wider than the bulb itself - a small pot in relation to the bulb size. Amaryllis like to be slightly potbound. You can place two or three pieces of broken clay flower pot or 1/2 inch (1.25cm) of gravel in the bottom.

You need a light, open, well-drained potting mixture containing some peat moss. An equal mixture of peat and perlite is also very good. The mixture should be slightly acid, with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Do not use a medium that contains pine bark.

Fill your pot about one-third full of potting soil. Place your bulb in the pot and add more potting mixture up to 1 in. (3 cm) below the rim of the pot. It is important in the care of Amaryllis bulbs to leave about one-half to two-thirds of the bulb neck above the soil level to prevent rot. Firm the soil, and water just once thoroughly, from both the top and bottom of the pot.

Watering

Don't water on a regular basis until new green growth appears at the top of the neck. If the soil dries out before that time, water no more than once per week, preferably from the bottom of the pot. Your bulb is developing roots to bring moisture into it. Excessive watering at this stage will rot the roots and stop growth. Overwatering at the beginning of amaryllis growth is the main reason for failure. Also do not water over the nose of the bulb.

After growth appears water whenever the soil below the top inch is dry - no more than once every 3 days. This is best done by standing your pot in water with the level halfway up the pot for a short time. Don't let the pot sit in water for long periods. Maintain your bulb in a slightly moist but not wet soil condition until flowering. Do not over water.

Temperature and Light

Place your pot in a sunny, warm room with day temperature about 65-78 deg.F (18-25 deg.C). Plants grown in a north facing window may require supplemental light. Night temperature can be 55-60 deg.F (13-15 deg.C) . Turning the pot one-half turn every few days will keep the foliage growth balanced.

Feeding

You can feed your Amaryllis with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20 with trace elements) once a month while the plant is in active growth, but use it at half the recommended rate. Or you can use a complete slow- release fertilizer that lasts several months. But do not overfertilize. Good nutrition will build large, healthy bulbs (and blooms) for future years.

Flowering

The flower stalk often appears before the leaves. As the flower stem grows it is a good idea to provide a stick or wire support to hold up your blooms. Take care you do not pierce the bulb. Don't tie a string or wire around the stem. This could break the stem later during flowering.

Once the flower buds are ready to open, the pot should be moved to a cooler location (65deg.F - 18deg.C) out of direct sunlight. This will both prolong flowering and bring out the brilliant colors of your Amaryllis. At first, the flowers are green, and they develop their color over a period of days before the petals unfold. When flowering starts, increase the frequency of waterings to prolong flowering. Typically, each flower stem produces four blooms, which open within 2-3 days of each other. Blooms may last several days to a week. Avoid getting the pollen onto fabrics as it can stain them.

After Flowering

After flowering, cut off the flower stalks and finally cut the main stem off 2 inches (5cm) above the bulb. Take care that the water that normally runs out of the freshly cut stalk does not splash onto furniture.

Treat your plant as you would any houseplant until summer. Put the plant back into normal light. Water weekly and apply a weekly fertilizer feed from March. More leaves will appear. In May, or as soon as all danger of frost is past, put the plant outside where it can get morning sun and afternoon shade. You can leave it in its pot or plant it in the ground. They thrive in any reasonably good, well-drained garden soil. Water plants in pots regularly 3 to 4 times per week through the summer with a soluble plantfood.

Leaf growth and sunlight will build up your bulb for next year's flowers. Allow the leaves to fully develop and grow for 5-6 months at least. Stop watering in late August.

When the leaves yellow and dry off, which normally occurs in September, cut the leaves back to about 2 inches (5cm) from the top of the bulb, put your bulb in a cool, dark, frost-free place and leave it for 8 to 12 weeks. Do not water at this time. You will need to bring your Amaryllis into a frost-free place before frosts start.

Cool Resting Period

The key to repeat flowering in the care of Amaryllis bulbs is to keep them cool, 55 deg.F (13 deg.C) maximum, for at least 8 to 12 weeks. This can be accomplished either by putting your bulb in a cool, dry storage area or, preferably, by keeping your plant in a cool growing location for this length of time. It is not necessary for your plant to go dormant, but just for it to be cool. You should not water your bulb at this time. Cut off any dead leaves.

If you want to store your bulb dry, you can remove it from the soil, clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50 deg.F : 5-10deg.C), dark place such as the crisper of your refrigerator for a minimum of 8 weeks. Caution: Do not store Amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator containing apples, for they emit a gas which will kill the bulbs. Also the bulbs must NOT be frozen.

After a minimum period of 8 weeks you may remove your bulbs. Start them as you would any new Amaryllis and pot up the bulbs.

For Amaryllis stored cool in their pots, whenever you want them to begin growing again to start the blooming period once more, firstly cut any dead tissue off your bulb's neck. Then remove the top 1/2 inch (1.25cm) of soil from the pot and replace with new soil. Or, you can repot at this time. Water the potted bulb ONCE thoroughly, and place your pot in normal indoor temperatures. Remember, it takes 6-8 weeks for flowering.

Offset bulblets can be removed from the mother bulb and planted in individual pots, but it is better to leave them to grow with the mother bulb for 2 years. This will hasten their maturity. The whole clump can be transferred to a larger pot to create a fine display.

An Amaryllis may not flower again for the first year after you save it . However, after this, your bulb will usually flower every year with an increase in the number of flowers.

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Christmas Blooming Amaryllis

These generally bloom in 4-6 weeks from planting. They are planted in 6 inch (15cm) pots indoors. These bulbs are available from late September until December. For Christmas blooms, plant approximately from November 15 - 20. For blooms in late November, plant approximately October 15 - 20.

If you want to grow Amaryllis outside in the garden, see Growing Amaryllis Outdoors.

For Amaryllis belladonna - the Belladonna Lily, also known as the Jersey Lily, see Amaryllis Belladonna.

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