"Chrysanthemums Outdoors"

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Growing Chrysanthemums Outdoors

Chrysanthemums or mums are easy to grow outdoors, either as bedding plants, massed in beds, or in pots on your deck or patio. There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, with many differences in height, color, flower size and time of bloom.

Planting And Cultivation

Garden Chrysanthemums are best planted in spring, after frosts have finished. Put them in a sunny area. They will grow in partial shade but you will not get as many flowers. They need a fertile, well-prepared, freely-draining soil. Your plants will benefit if peat moss, well-rotted manure, or other, suitable organic matter is dug into the soil. They will not grow well in a sticky clay soil. Space your plants 18-30 inches (45-75 cm) apart. Fall plantings are less likely to survive the winter.

Pinch back the growth in early spring when it is 4 inches (10 cm) high and continue up to the end of June, pinching back whenever new shoots are 4 inches (10 cm) long. Using thumbnail and index finger, just snip off about 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) of the new growth at the top of each and every shoot. This will produce a sturdy, compact, bushier plant with more blooms. Regular pinching prevents Chrysanthemums growing tall and leggy with few blooms. Pinching out after June delays flower formation.

With the largest flowering types it is best to remove all buds except for the one at the top, so that they will produce the maximum size of bloom.

Chrysanthemums have shallow roots and so need to be kept well watered throughout the summer. Also apply a good, balanced, all purpose fertilizer regularly each month up to the end of July.

Chrysanthemums flower in response to short day length and long nights over a period of 5-7 weeks. If grown near to bright street lights or other such night lights this may inhibit flower formation. In some areas the heat and drought of late summer can delay flowering. Chrysanthemums make excellent cut flowers for indoor vases.

Pests and Disease

Plants will need checking for pest and disease problems. Aphids are common and can be controlled by spraying with an insecticidal soap, pyrethrum, or other suitable insecticide. Disease problems are few - powdery mildew, leafspot, and rust. Keep under control using a sulfur fungicide. See also Chrysanthemum Pests Outdoors and Chrysanthemum Diseases.

Protection in Winter

The shallow root system of Chrysanthemums is sensitive to severe cold, to repeated freezing and thawing, to wet heavy soil, and to lack of a protective snow cover.

In the winter you need to give some protection from hard frosts. You can leave the old foliage on your plants to provide the roots with some winter protection. Mulch with 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm) of straw, evergreen branches, or other similar light airy mulch. Leaves are not so suitable as a mulch because they tend to pack solid when wet. With protection Mums survive the winter in most zones. In the more northerly climate areas a thick layer of mulch over your plant will be especially necessary. In spring prune back chrysanthemum stems and remove the mulch.

Frost heaving of the soil caused by alternate freezing and thawing can also be a major problem. Soil can be drawn up around the plants and a small drainage channel dug alongside to take excess water away.

Garden Chrysanthemums produce underground shoots or stolons which provide your plants with some protection to survive the winter. Florist Chrysanthemums produce few or no stolons, so their roots are nearer the surface and they are more easily killed in winter.

Cultivars vary in their degree of winter hardiness. It is better to grow early-flowering cultivars in areas with long winters. Avoid planting mums in areas subject to cold, dry north winds.

Division of Old Clumps

Chrysanthemums should be divided every two to three years to avoid overcrowding, to keep your plants vigorous, and to encourage good flowering. In early spring, when the new growth is 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) high, dig up your old clumps, and separate the plants with a sharp knife or spade. Discard the old, inner, woody pieces and any dead or diseased parts. Replant using only young, strong, vigorous sections from the outside of the clump.

It is not advisable to grow Chrysanthemums in the same ground for more than three consecutive years in order to prevent a buildup of disease and pest problems. It is best to move them to a new location, or otherwise it may become necessary to use chemicals to treat the soil.

Propagation By Cuttings

Cut a strong, vigorous, 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) long shoot in summer and remove the leaves from the lower half. Tip or softwood cuttings can also be taken in early spring. Dip the base of the cut end into a hormone rooting powder and insert the cutting one inch deep into a good, open, proprietary cutting compost. You can also use a 50/50 peat and sand mix. Cover with polythene over a wire frame support and place in a light place, but not in direct sunlight. Keep cuttings moderately warm to improve your success rate. When roots form, harden off in stages and plant out or repot.

Propagation By Seeds

Seeds can be sown indoors in very early spring. They are easily germinated at a constant 70-75 deg F (21-24 deg C). Keep slightly moist at all times. Germination can take from 8-25 days. After 6 weeks, at the 4-6 leaf stage, carefully separate the seedlings, holding them only by the leaves, and transplant into small pots or trays for growing on. Provide good, bright light with regular feeding and watering. Pinch out the shoot tips when 6 inches (15 cm) tall.

Alternatively you can sow seed outside where your plants are to bloom. Sow at least 2 months prior to the first frost.

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